The enigmatic Tom Curren knows a thing or two about building up an eccentric quiver. From skim boards in massive waves to paddle boards in small ones, Tom goes off on the “immutable laws” of surfboard design.

Sample:

MC: Do you think you alter your style with each different board you choose to ride?

TC: Yes. One time I surfed on a [Channel Islands] Semi-Pro [model] and I was like, “I can’t surf this thing. I’m going to have to try and surf like Kelly.” I had Kelly’s fins in, too. I went into a turn and the whitewater hit me, and I tweaked my ankle. I was out of the water for three weeks. That was the last time I ever did that. But yes, sometimes it has to do with the board. And I’m not making this up, but I really try and think and surf how Occy does. Like I really try to become Occy, but a regularfoot. Or, maybe it’s like Andy Irons. Those are people who surf or surfed differently than I do. It just depends on the board. Andy’s boards had narrow noses, so he surfed more vertical. A narrow nose allows you to surf tighter to the pocket. You find the balance between what works for you and what you would call “immutable laws.” There are certain things that don’t change about surfboards. The same thing has to do with boats, too. You can’t simply say, “It’s this way now.”

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Click to THE SURFERS JOURNAL for the interview with Tom Curren 

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