The Impermanence Of All Things | Surf sessions, catastrophic earthquakes, + the difficulty of experiencing time + place in the immediacy of living
Do you ever ponder the big things in life? Catastrophic earthquakes, tsunamis, the difficulty of experiencing time and place in the immediacy of living, etc. Essayist David Wong does amongst the backdrop of the beautiful Pacific north west. Once your mind gets all bent into circles remember… surfing is the answer.
Sample:
“Surfing is like alkahest, the mythical, universal solvent. It is the dissolver of my ills, time out of mind, and the greatest reverie I know. Forget the cosmic meat grinder—surfing lures me into the brownout sludge of Bowls, the shark-breaching peaks of Pacifica, and now, the brooding waters of the Northwest. Surfing is the escape. It is the paradoxical escape into danger. Such is its power.”
Click over to THE SURFERS JOURNAL for an essay: The Impermanence of all Things
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