Chas Smith: On Surfing | “I want to paint a masterpiece but am only able to scribble.”
It’s a big week for Beach Grit‘s Chas Smith. First he was podcasted and now Chas and his infamous cigarette have been immortalized for eternity on Indoek. You’d almost think he was releasing a new book in the near future or something (Cocaine + Surfing: A Love Story). If there is a paragraph on surfing written by Chas out there that hasn’t forced a smile I haven’t read it yet.
Sample:
Can you describe one of the most challenging aspects of surfing to you?
Oh, easy: Sticking my first full rotation air. But also I think forcing my body to look even 5% like my mind wants it to look. I love surfing. I love the feeling it gives. I love that rush of electric love when I paddle, paddle, paddle, pop up, look down the line and see a gorgeous shoulder starting to stack up. That canvas is the most enticing thing in the whole world save the female form. The possibilities, the potential, it’s all there and endless. I want to paint a masterpiece but am only able to scribble. That dissonance is challenging.
Click to INDOEK for Chas Smith: On Surfing.
