Defn guilty of this and have pissed off some of my friends because of it. Sometime you just want to say fuck the 10 or 20 minute surf check and get right into the water. Take whatever it may throw at you be it better or worse than you ever expected. It’s about dropping those expectations sometimes and just surfing more.

 

Sample:

“Will there be times when you force yourself into horrible conditions? Yes. Might you surf the worst waves of your life? Absolutely. Could there be times when you don’t even catch a wave at all? Sure. But will you ever be upset with yourself for at least attempting to surf? Fuck no. The worst wave of your life will still feel better than the best Instagram scroll.

So be blind. Be brave. A recent study showed that there are over 26 million arranged marriages per year, and that arranged marriages have a mere 6.3% divorce rate. What that teaches is us is that there is a bunch of weird shit that happens on this planet so if your life is good enough to include surfing, you should consider yourself very lucky. Not taking advantage of that luck is simply unjust to all the people who have to marry strangers they haven’t even fucked yet.

Because at the end of the day (or at dawn too), the less you look at the waves, the more you go surfing.”

 

 

Click to STAB for the Glory Of The No-Look Paddle Out

 

 

 

 

Follow BOARD RAP on Insta for more updates.