Why Aren’t More Surfers Dying as the Waves Ridden Get Heavier?
Surfing big waves looks completely insane. It’s regularly voted one of the most dangerous sports in the world and taking even a head high wave on top of the dome is terrifying for an average surfer. Yet statistics show big wave surfers aren’t really dying. Why? The Surfers Journal looked into it…
“Seven years ago surfing seemed to be on the cusp of peak gnar, with top-freighted slabs the photographic order of the day. It felt likely that these reefs would soon be smeared with the remains of the slow or hubristic. Factor in the growing list of 50-plus foot waves in the XXL landscape, and it was getting hard to ignore an obvious question: why aren’t more of us dying? Writer Brad Melekian took up the assignment, and discovered that the odds might be worse than the statistics show.” —Scott Hulet
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