Secret spots in surfing come with the pluses and minuses. They don’t always stick around for various reasons. AKA Stoners down in Mexico is a perfect example.

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What happens to a dream realized? Once discovered, does one stop at perfection? Not if our past movements count for anything. Plotted on a graph, the life cycle of a surf spot usually describes a familiar “up and to the right” motif. The line spikes skyward, spurred by increased awareness and visitation until carrying capacity is met, exceeded, and then merely endured. Many are wired to deal with it. Others complain bitterly. Some quietly move on, naively vowing that next time they’ll hold their mud.

The prime example is, of course, Malibu. Postwar population dynamics transformed that cobbled heaven into a Malthusian dystopia by the 1950s. For the first time, surfers seeking even a hint of freedom had to look elsewhere. Malibu—indeed, Southern California—became not a destination but a place you left. Many of these refugees were seeking precisely what they’d lost—a wave like First Point.

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Click to THE SURFERS JOURNAL for a look at AKA Stoners

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