Great Reads From Controversial ‘Surf Journalist’ | “… truly the most absurd, Sisyphean thing a man can do is surf.”
We are right now in the midst of reading Cocaine + Surfing, an instant classic from BeachGrit’s Chas Smith. While lol’ing we constantly ask, what kinds of books does this madman read to become inspired to write such trash!
Well now we know.
‘THE HERO WITH A THOUSAND FACES’ BY JOSEPH CAMPBELL
“I wrote the pitch [for Cocaine + Surfing] as a total lark, and when it was actually time to write it, I was like, ‘There’s no book here! It’s just two words!’ So I was really struggling.
“One of my least favourite ever pieces of writing is The Hero with a Thousand Faces by Joseph Campbell. I always hated the concept — it just always seemed so obvious and ham-fisted. Of course a lot of books have this arc with a hero and his journey — why make it all weird and metaphysical? So every chapter of Cocaine + Surfing is a chapter from the ‘hero’s journey’ with me as the hero, on the hero’s journey, in search of cocaine and surfing.