Move over William Finnegan. Chas Smith is back on the long form typewriter with 2018’s soon to be classic Cocaine + Surfing: A Love Story!

And what a romance the two have enjoyed. Since the very beginning the two have matured and enjoyed a long and prosperous, mostly symbiotic relationship.


“And can you even believe? The follow-up to 2014’s eighth best surf bookabout Oahu’s North Shore gets a sequel!


In truth, this damned thing is why I’ve been such a disaster in every part of my life lately. Books are strange vampires. They suck the very life out. They stay awake at night. They demand, they fuss, they change their minds. They obstinately get in the way of things that really matter and turn invisible in the mirror and die when staked and decapitated. But there’s almost nothing I’d rather be doing than writing one. Oh, I know I know I know publishing is dead and who reads long-form anything anymore and what a waste of time and energy but the heart wants what the heart wants.”


Click over to BEACH GRIT for more on surfings next great novel


It's officially official. I'm writing another surf book! Click link in profile and start dusting off the Pulitzer…

A photo posted by Chas Smith (@reportsfromhell) on


Follow BOARD RAP on Insta for more updates.