An Ode To Insanity | The blissful, irrationality of surfing
Head into today with a nice little rant on the blissful, irrationality of surfing. An ode to it’s and our insanity. And if you do surf passionately, it goes without saying you are a little bit insane.
Sample:
Insanity — which can be defined as extreme folly or unreasonableness — that people would only want to go in the ocean and ride waves when the sun is shining high and bright and the water is warm enough to wear boardshorts and everybody is tan and people are half-naked or occasionally full-naked and sometimes even attractively so. There’s nothing reasonable about that.
What is reasonable, though, is working your ass off to save up a couple grand and not putting that money into an account or a house or making any form of traditional investment with it, and instead opting to spend it on a flight to the other side of the world based off a whisper you heard from a friend of a friend. Reasonable is leaving a warm bed at 5 AM with the desperate hope that maybe the forecasters got it wrong, maybe the wind won’t pick up so damn early. Reasonable is dedicating a large chunk of your life to pursuing some phantom thrill.
Right?
I thought about the places where reason has guided me. Like a halfway house in Puerto Rico because it was on their version of Craigslist and was the cheapest room in town. And behind the wheel of an automobile weaving its way in a zen-like-fear through an Arab street market in Africa because going around it would’ve taken too long and we had a tide to beat. Or the oppressively cold waters of a New Jersey winter, with sideways snowflakes pelting my pre-teen cheeks and digging straight to the bone, all for a waist-high windswell. You probably have stories that relate — obsession manifests itself in many different ways.
Click to STAB MAG for a rant on the insanity of surfing
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